Fashionable flared ribbing can look great, but there are a few tricks.
Flared ribbing involves casting on more stitches than needed, for a cuff as an example, and decreasing an inch or so before the cuff ends. The decreasing can also be done more gradually. Usually, there are more purl stitches than knit stitches to start with and the purl stitches get decreased to create the flare.
The first trick is to avoid holes when decreasing. Simply tighten up the decrease and on the next row, knit the decreased stitches a little more firmly and the flared ribbing will look flawless.
The second trick is to use a tight decrease. A ssk is usually tighter than a k2tog. If the decrease is done on the wrong side try a ssp instead of a p2tog. If the decrease uses both a knit and a purl stitch, use the decrease that leaves the knit stitch prominent; however, you can configure the decreases to take advantage of the tighter decrease.
Here is my design for a Self-Strip Cabled Shrug available on ravelry. http://www.ravelry.com/designers/margie-mitchell
Ever look at your cables and then look at those in the magazines and books and wonder how the designer got such a tidy looking cable? Well, the answer lies in a couple of techniques that keep the stitches in the cable and right next to the cable all the same size.
First, just like ribbing, when changing from a knit to a purl, or visa versa, bring the yarn straight back or forward and give a little tug to get rid of the slack in the yarn.
Second, keep the stitches in the cable from stretching out by working at the tips of the needles through the cable section on a row where the stitches are crossed. You’ll be amazed at how neat and tidy those cables will look.
Third, manipulate the stitches if necessary to get rid of looseness. Loose stitches usually occur on the left side of the cable if the cable is a left or front cross and on the right side if the cable is a right or back cross.
That’s about it, just practice and those fun cables will look even better.
This pattern can be found by clicking on the ravelry pattern link, or just go to ravlery, click patterns, and then type in Margie Mitchell.
The jogless join as seen on the inner foot/ankle of the sock allows you to be able to knit without the seams in an in the round way. To accomplish this, I will use the example of two circular needles for the sock. Work to within one stitch of the end of needle #1, slip the stitch knitwise, pick up the right leg of the stitch below the first stitch on the 2nd needle (next to the stitch just slipped) and put it on the needle with the slipped stitch; knit into the back of both the slipped stitch and the the stitch just picked up.
*Now, turn, and work back (on the wrong side) on needle #1 and needle #2. Once all the stitches on needle #2 are worked, turn, and work back (right side) on the stitches on needles #2 and #1, except for the last stitch on needle #1. As before, slip the last stitch on needle #1 (knitwise) and pick up the right leg of the stitch next to this stitch on needle #2, put this picked up stitch on the needle with the slipped stitch and knit into the back of both loops (this is like knitting into the back of both stitches for ssk). Turn; repeat from *.
The whole sock may be knit this way, or just in the intarsia portion. Make sure to knit the intarsia portions firmly as knitting back and forth usually produces a looser tension then knitting in the round.
The jogless or South American Join may also be used for lining up stripes knit in the round. Keep working in the round, but after one row in the new color, pick up the stitch below the stitch on the needle (like a lifted increase) on the first stitch of the second round of the new color. Your stripes will be even without a jog. For the pattern, check out http://www.ravelry.com/designers/margie-mitchell
jogless join on inner ankle/foot
The newest design that I am working on is a sock with three sweet flowers down the front of the sock. This involves using intarsia, working the color only in the area needed with small amounts of yarn. The knitted piece must be knitted back and forth so that the yarn used in part of the row is on the correct side of the knitting so that it can be worked again. With socks, this means that circular knitting and intarsia don’t mix. And, well, seams do not feel so great, so what is a knitter to do? Well, that’s where the jogless join comes in. You can construct the sock in the round and get a seamless sock, but you will not be knitting in the round where the intarsia/flowers will be worked. This leaves a barley noticeable join and seamless sock with a cute design. Next post I will upload a picture of the sock and photos on the technique, as well as explain it more detail. The sock pattern will be available on my Ravelry store. http://www.ravelry.com/designers/margie-mitchell